FACT FILE FOR PAKISTAN AND AFGHANISTAN

General info

It is stating the obvious but Pakistan and Afghanistan are both Islamic countries. Some of areas we visit are particularly conservative and we have to ensure we respect the local traditions and customs.

In our set itineraries we will provide some free tailored local clothing for you to wear if you like and to take back as a souvenir. Otherwise loose fitting long sleeve tops and loose trousers or long skirts are the order of the day. 

Pakistan has a problem with a shortage of electricity. Major cities including Islamabad and Peshawar get around this by load shedding. Effectively the electrical supply is cut to different parts of the cities at different times of the day. This is especially bad in the summer when everyone who has one turns on their power thirsty A/C units. In the rest of Northern Pakistan and Afghanistan electricity is not so well ordered. Sometimes there is plenty, sometimes there is none. We pack plenty of candles and torches but it is best to bring your own as well.

Internet facilities are available in the larger cities but sometimes suffer from a lack of power. Some smaller parts of Northern Pakistan and Afghanistan have reasonable facilities set up by NGO's, some have none. Don't assume that you will have access to internet and if you bring a laptop please don't complain if you cannot find a wi-fi connection!!!
 

Visas Requirements

It is your responsibility to arrange visas.

When booking we will ensure you are aware of the visa requirements:

Health and vaccinations

Please consult your local GP about the necessary vaccinations for Pakistan and Afghanistan. Note that many of our trips involve journeys over high passes, whilst there is no real risk of severe altitude sickness if you have a history of heart problems it may well be worth contacting your doctor.

Insurance

Insurance is your own responsibility and we will ask for a copy of your details at the beginning of the trip to ensure that we can take action in the unlikely event that anything happens. Please ensure that your insurance agent is aware of where and what you are doing. Many will state that they are worldwide policies but may not pay out in areas that the UK government does not deem as safe to visit.

If you have any concerns please contact us or contact Bellwood Pressbury  who have years of experience insuring journalists and ex-pats and will able to provide a number of comprehensive insurance options for Afghanistan.

Contact: info@bellwoodprestbury.com

Safety

Is it safe to visit Pakistan and Afghanistan?

That is the $64,000 question. We would not be visiting these places ourselves if we did not think so. In Pakistan the recent unrest since the summer of 2007 has been directed at military and political targets. Whilst it is true that Pakistan is subjected to attacks, the chances of getting caught up in a blast in the short time you are in Islamabad or Peshawar is very, very slim. You are much more likely to be hurt due to some of Pakistan’s erratic driving techniques. The Pakistani people are very conscious of their image in the world and often you will be dragged into a conversation in which it is carefully explained to you that Pakistanis and Muslims are not terrorists.

Afghanistan whilst suffering an insurgency in the South is currently calm in the Northern and Central regions we visit. Again the risk of harm is very slim compared to the even more manic Afghani driving. The rule of law does not extend too far outside the main cities but we have many contacts in Afghanistan and we take advice from governments, tribal chiefs and people from the areas we visit before we begin any trip. Even so, in Afghanistan we do take extra precautions. In cities we often break into smaller groups so as not to offer as large or obvious a target. We ensure our itinerary is restricted to as few people as possible and when travelling between cities we always take more than one vehicle so that we are not left stranded in the case of a break down.

Please contact us if you have any further concerns or questions about how we work to ensure the safety of our guests.

Weather and climate

Pakistan and Afghanistan lie in the temperate zone meaning they have cool, dry winters and hot summers. In the Northern areas of Pakistan and Central areas of Afghanistan the winters are harsh and snowy. Even in the summer it can get chilly when at altitude, especially at night. Add to this the monsoon which hits the South of Pakistan as far north as Peshawar and Islamabad and you can see that there is a mix of weather to contend with. It's best to bring thermals and sun block, you'll probably need both.

Price

The price of the trips includes accommodation, transport, breakfast and guides.

We do not include Flights (unless specifically stated in the program), meals, drinks, entrance fees, visas and tips. We do this to reduce the basic costs and allow you freedom to make your own choices.

Money

How much to bring is up to you. Unless you are planning on picking up that Afghani silk rug then ₤200-₤300 should be more than enough to buy meals, drinks, tips etc…In Kabul and Islamabad it is possible to find some relatively expensive upmarket restaurants and bars.

Cash is the best form of currency. Travellers cheques can be changed in Islamabad and in both Islamabad and Kabul there are cash machines that take credit cards and even UK debit cards. If you bring cash, dollars are probably best although money changers in Islamabad, Peshawar and all Afghan cities will be able change almost any currency you give them.

The unit of currency in Pakistan is the Pakistani Rupee and in Afghanistan it is the Afghani. Both currencies fluxuate a fair bit and the Pakistani economy is in particular trouble at the moment. But hey, whose isn’t?

For up to date exchange rates please have a look at www.xchange.com

Food and Alcohol

If you have any special dietary requirements or are a vegetarian please let us know ahead of time and we will do our best to accommodate. Food in both Northern Pakistan and rural Afghanistan is basic and the lack of variety can be a bit of a drag for gastronomes. During Ramadan (11th August - 9th September in 2010) all Muslim fast during daylight hours. Whilst this is undoubtedly an interesting time to visit and the evening fast breaking meal of Iftar is a great occasion, the lack of shops and restaurants open during the day can be difficult. However, none of our fixed itineraries coincide with Ramadan.

As an Islamic country alcohol is officially banned in Pakistan. Duty free should be confiscated on arrival but this is rarely enforced on foreign visitors if they do not openly display it. Outside of Islamabad the only place you are likely to get anything to drink is Kalash wine and a mulberry flavoured moonshine found throughout the North known as Hunza water.

The situation in Afghanistan is vague. After riots in Kabul in 2006 protesting about the influx of western immorality, sale of alcohol and Chinese restaurants fronting as brothels, there was a clamp down. Bars can be found in Kabul however. Outside of Kabul the odd under the table bottle of Uzbek Vodka may be located but it is basically dry.

If you are planning on bringing any alcohol in please note that whilst Prince and Hussein are both tea total James is rather partial to a good Brandy but he’ll drink anything.

Recommended Reading

This list is not comprehensive, in fact it is very subjective. It is stuff we like and think you may as well:

Great Game - Peter Hopkirk

A rattling read about how Tsarist Russia and Victorian Britain fought a century long cloak and dagger battle over Central Asia. From Genghis Khan to Sir Francis Younghusband. Afghanistan and Northern Pakistan are at the heart of this battle for power.

The Great War for Civilisation:The Conquest of the Middle East – Robert Fisk

Robert Fisk has been reporting on the Middle East including Afghanistan since the 1970's and this is his incredible account of the times he reported on and how we got were we are.

Road to Kandhar – Jason Burke

The Observer journalist reviews his 10 years reporting from the “Islamic world” from Algeria and Iraq to Afghanistan and Indonesia. Shorter than Fisks epic above but enlightening nonetheless. 

Kite Runner - Khaled Hosseini 

A fictional novel based heavily on the authors experiences in pre-soviet Afghanistan. Whilst we feel the ending is a bit Hollywood his images of Kabul in the 1970's are great. Our March Kite Running tour tries to capture some of the images the author portrays including a trip to Qargha Lake, watching some of the New Year kite fighting and seeing catapult wielding Hazara kids around Bamian.

Bookseller of Kabul - Asne Seierstad

Norwegian journalist, Asne Seierstad spent 3 months living with a Kabuli family. Her book describing her experiences portrays a bullying, bookselling patriarch and has been both successful and controversial in equal measure. The bookseller still works in Kabul and has written his own book in which he tries to set the record straight. It is available in his bookshop so for fans of this book would be able to pick up a unique souvenir.

The places in between - Rory Stewart

Describing Rory Stewart's epic walk across Central Afghanistan 2 weeks after the fall of the Taliban Government in 2001. Our trips to Bamian cover some of the same ground.

A short walk in the Hindu Kush - Eric Newby

We hope our trips are a little more planned than Eric Newby's attempt to climb a remote mountain in Nuristan, only to find neither he or his climbing partner have any climbing experience. A cracking read written in a hilarious 1950's self deprecating style. 

What to bring?

We are not your mum but here’s a list of things that might be handy to have with you. Most of our trips are in areas where people have never heard of a 7/11 and apart from an endless supply of tea assume any other staple products are hard to come by:

• Plastic carrier bags. Very useful for dirty washing, dirty shoes, rubbish and keeping stuff dry.
• Torch and maybe even some candles if you are the romantic type. Electricity is a luxury in many places.
• Alarm clock.
• Some warm clothes, even at the height of summer at altitude it can get cold at night.
• Flip flops/thongs. For the bathroom.
• Small packs of tissues and wet wipes. Good for washing hands and other parts.
• A money belt or secure pouch for money and passport etc.
• Mosquito repellent.
• Sunscreen.
• A bandanna or large handkerchief is useful for dusty tracks, although Afghani scarves can be bought cheaply in Peshawar. 
• Eye patches and ear plugs if you are a light sleeper.
• Sewing kit.
• A modest bathing suit. Whilst we are passing through conservative areas and public bathing is frowned upon, we do know some secluded spots to cool off on hot days and hot springs to relax the muscles after a hard day.
• Sunglasses.
• Writing materials.
• Swiss Army knife / Leatherman.
• Plenty of spare film or memory space. You will probably take a lot of photos.
• Binoculars are also a nice thing to have.
• We carry a pretty decent first aid kit but it may be advisable to have your own.